Regional jewelry includes antique pieces from various regions of France, emblematic of a time when traditional costumes were accessorized with jewelry. Among these typical 19th-century pieces are Savoyard hoops, poissarde earrings, antique Jeannette crosses, jewelry from Puy-en-Velay, Bressan enamel jewelry, Perpignan garnets, Saint-Esprit pendants, Antillean bracelets, and more. Despite the disappearance of regional costumes, there are still some areas where women continue the tradition of wearing their regional jewelry during celebrations and in daily life.
In this article, we present regional jewelry that has stood the test of time, such as Norman jewelry, Perpignan garnet jewelry, Mediterranean coral jewelry, pieces from the Antilles, and other lesser-known but equally fascinating jewelry. We also guide you on where to buy them in Paris and across France. Finally, we recommend museums to explore this fabulous French jewelry heritage.
Antique french regional jewelry
Certain regions of France have thrived more than others. For example, antique jewelry from the South of France, Normandy, and the Antilles has enjoyed wider dissemination and has endured through time.
Perpignan Garnet Jewelry
In the 1750s, garnet deposits were discovered near Estagel by the inhabitants of Perpignan. This discovery likely led to an increase in the use of garnet in this region of France during that period. However, it is difficult to precisely date the appearance of Perpignan garnets in Catalan jewelry, although some local masterpieces date back to the 1700s.
Perpignan garnet jewelry is distinguished by its specific cut, known as the “Perpignan cut,” and its unique setting. The terms “Perpignan Garnet” and “Perpignan cut” are protected, thereby securing these pieces as part of the exceptional heritage of Roussillon.
Today, only ten workshops continue to produce these iconic pieces using traditional techniques.
Among these antique jewels typical of the South of France, you’ll find esclavage necklaces, marquise rings, bracelets, a few rare poissarde earrings, and antique pins.
MORE INFO : The History of Perpignan Garnet Jewelry
Antique Jewelry from Normandy
Normandy, a wealthy agricultural province, funded its own invasions and conquered England in 1066 thanks to its fertile lands and diverse resources. In the mid-18th century, it witnessed the birth of some of the oldest regional jewelry in France, which quickly evolved into various distinct forms. Norman jewelers embraced rhinestones soon after their invention in Germany, replacing cut quartz stones. Unlike in Flanders and Provence, Norman jewelry never incorporated diamonds.
Among these antique jewelry pieces typical of Normandy, you’ll often find old crosses: bosse cross pendants accompanied by a heart-shaped slide, Rouen crosses, Saint Lô crosses, and more. Additionally, there are brooches, buttons, belt buckles, enameled esclavage necklaces often made of jaseron chain links with barrel or flat clasps featuring floral or sentimental enamel motifs, Yvetot necklaces, and others.
SEE MORE: VICTORIAN JEWELRY FROM NORMANDY
These Norman jewels are sometimes made of gold, sometimes of silver, and exclusively set with rhinestones.
Mediterranean Coral Jewelry
During Antiquity, fishing for coral took place in the Mediterranean. In the 19th century, coral jewelry flourished in the South of France, including Marseille, Cassis, Corsica, and more. In Italy, jewelry creation thrived in Torre del Greco, where the Liverino coral collection has been available since 1986, as well as in Trapani, Sicily.
Mediterranean coral jewelry comes in a variety of forms: faceted coral bead bracelets or stick bracelets, multi-strand smooth bead bracelets, round bead necklaces, drop coral earrings, coral cameos set in brooches and rings, and coral buttons mounted on rings.
Coral can be red, but its colors can vary from white to pink (angel skin coral), orange, and even black and gold. The most sought-after shades are “blood red coral” and “angel skin.”
SEE MORE: OUR CORAL JEWELRY
Currently, most coral species are protected under CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora.
Antillean Jewelry or Creole Jewelry
Traditional Antillean jewelry features names inspired by local history, fauna, or flora: pomme cannelle, “tété négresse,” twisted chains, gros sirop necklaces, forçat chains, grain d’or necklaces, wasp nest brooches, chou necklaces, and more.
Creole jewelry tends to be quite substantial. Their size requires goldsmiths to make them from thin sheets of gold worked in layers. The gold hues often vary, ranging from yellow to green to pink. The material also varies to achieve different designs: til, balls, or layered plaques.
The Best Places to Buy Regional Jewelry
We present a list of galleries where you can purchase antique jewelry from French regions. These galleries specialize in authentic precious jewelry verified by gemology experts.
Maison Mohs
At Maison Mohs, we offer a wide range of antique regional jewelry. Most often, you’ll find regional crosses such as Jeanette crosses, Dévote crosses, Puy-en-Velay crosses, Limousin écotées crosses, Huguenot crosses, and Bressan enamel crosses, among others.
We also feature a beautiful selection of jewelry from the South of France, including Catalan pieces, Perpignan garnets, a Roussillon bracelet, and Provençal jewelry: Arles crosses, verre églomisé pendants, drapery rings and necklaces, and Mediterranean coral jewelry.
Norman jewelry is well-represented as well, with Yvetot necklaces, Saint Esprit pendants, enameled clasps (flat clasps, barrel clasps, and barrel clasps), and antique poissarde earrings.
If you wish to try on an antique jewel, have a ring or gemstone appraised, simply schedule an appointment, and we will be delighted to welcome you to our office in the heart of the Marais.
SEE MORE : OUR REGIONAL JEWELRY
Website: Maisonmohs.com
Instagram: @maison.mohs
Location: In the heart of the Marais
To schedule an appointment: bonjour@maisonmohs.com or click here
Caillou Paris
The Caillou Paris gallery features high-quality regional jewelry. Here, you can find antique Perpignan garnet jewelry, so-called “Savoyard” earrings, Provençal jewelry in gold and silver set with diamonds (including necklaces and antique earrings), briquet earrings, Norman jewelry, Bourges baton crosses, and more.
Website: caillou-paris.fr
Instagram: @caillou.paris
To schedule an appointment : contact@caillou-paris.fr
Bijoux Tsarina
For over 30 years, Bijoux Tsarina Gallery has offered showcase items and antique jewelry. On their gallery page on proantic.com, you’ll find a range of precious jewelry including antique regional pieces with Bressan enamel (drapery necklaces and earrings), Napoleonic III Mediterranean coral jewelry, and antique regional crosses.
Website: proantic.com/galerie/bijoux-tsarina/
To schedule an appointment : on the website proantic.com
Museums on Regional Jewelry
For history and jewelry enthusiasts, we recommend visiting certain museums as you travel through France on weekends and holidays.
Le Puy-en-Velay antique jewelry
If you are in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, you can visit the Musée du Puy-en-Velay, the Musée Crozatier, where you will find traditional jewelry from the region.
Website: Musée Crozatier
Antique Provençal Jewelry
If you are spending your weekend or vacation in Provence, be sure to visit the Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou, created by Hélène Costa, a woman with a deep passion for Provençal traditions. Over her lifetime, she amassed an impressive collection of Provençal clothing and typical jewelry from the region that was so dear to her. This collection led to the opening of the Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou in 1997.
Website: https://usines-parfum.fragonard.com/musees/le-musee-du-costume/
Antique Jewelry from New Aquitaine
If you’re visiting New Aquitaine, be sure to check out the Musée Bernard d’Agesci in Niort. There, you’ll find a beautiful collection of authentic jewelry, including antique crosses, brooches, costume jewelry, gold slides, drapery and esclavage necklaces, and capelet rings.
Website: musees.niortagglo.fr
Antique Jewelry from Normandy
If you visit Honfleur, be sure to stop by the Musée d’Ethnographie et de l’Art Populaire to see a collection of Norman jewelry.
Website: musees-honfleur.fr
Bonus: the site for everything you need to know about regional jewelry
“Les Bijoux des Français”