The chokers are short necklaces that are worn around the neck. In general they are 30 to 35 cm, they can be in gold, coral, diamonds. When did the chokers appear? We see them in 18th century paintings, often worn as ribbons with a pendant or a letter on the ribbon; but in the 19th century they are mostly present in England. In the Belle Époque period it is again the fashion of these short necklaces, or dog collars as they are called in France, they return to the forefront with pearls, stones, lace, diamonds.
Gold watch chain necklace crafted from 18-karat rose gold (750). The chain features a voluminous fancy link design and is secured with a lobster clasp. It can be worn as a choker necklace by adding a rectangular element in gold and platinum with filigree volutes, which comes with the chain, or as a double bracelet. This piece dates back to around 1900 and originates from France.
Hallmarks: Eagle’s head and rhinoceros (French hallmarks for 18k gold)
Length: 36 cm (14.17 inches)
Link Width: 5 mm (0.20 inches)
Ruby diamond necklace in 18 karat (750) yellow gold. This necklace is formed by a gold braid forming a choker, with a stylised gold motif signed Andrew Grima at its centre set with eight rubies in a closed and grain setting and eleven brilliant-cut diamonds in a claw setting. The clasp is located at the level of the main motif, ingeniously concealed beneath the decoration. Vintage necklace, circa 1970/1980, plaque signed Andrew Grima, France.
Length: 36 cm (the mesh is stretchable)
Width: 0.8 mm
Design dimensions: 55 mm x 18 mm Estimated total weight of diamonds: 0.54 carat
Total estimated weight of rubies: 2.42 carats
Note: the clasp has a safety eight.
Condition: wears of use, braided gold chain added afterwards
Weight : 39.10 gr
*The antique box is not sold with the jewel*
More about Andrew Grima (1921-2007) : Andrew Grima was an Italian-English jewellery artist who rose to prominence in the post-war years. In the mid-1960s, his innovative techniques and abstract Grima designs made him famous, and his creations were in great demand. He was a self-taught jeweller who made a lasting mark on the 1960s and 1970s with his brightly coloured jewellery and use of raw gold to sculptural effect. The jeweller made jewellery for famous people such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Barbara Hepworth and the British royal family (Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret, for example).
Antique watch chain necklace in pink gold 18 karats (750). Antique watch chain that can be worn as a choker or bracelet. The mesh is flexible and cubic decorated at the ends of fine spheres. The jewel closes with a clasp snap hook. Jewel from the end of the 19th century.
Eagle head hallmarks
Total length: 37.5 cm
Condition: one part of the clasp is in yellow gold and has been added afterwards