Retro period

The Retro period follows the Second World War which put an end to the Art Deco period. In the absence of stones and large fortunes ready to spend a lot, French jewelers launch collections rich in metal: yellow gold is in the spotlight. This is the appearance of the famous bracelets and rings tanks. These jewels are inspired by the chains of military tanks and often mix yellow and pink gold.

It is also the appearance of cocktail rings: big and high rings, with imposing stones but not very expensive at the time. Thus citrine, amethyst and smoky quartz have a nice place in the jewelry of the Retro period. Find the selection of Maison Mohs for the jewels of these years 40 to 60.

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  • Raymond templier brooch in silverBroche signée Raymond Templier

    Raymond Templier brooch

    1500,00€

    Raymond Templier brooch in silver. Rare brooch by Raymond Templier (1891-1968) from the 1950s, featuring an abstract motif in geometric shapes. Brooch by Raymond Templier, circa 1950/1955, France.

    Signed Raymond Templier, boar hallmark, Raymond Templier goldsmith’s hallmark.

    Dimensions: 25 x 61 mm

    Note: a jewelry drawing on tracing paper by Raymond Templier, in the collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, has a design similar to our brooch (see photo).

    Condition: scratches from use

    Weight : 9.51 gr

    Biography: Raymond Templier (1891-1968) was a renowned French jeweler, famous for his avant-garde, modernist designs. Born into a family of jewelers, he continued his studies at the École des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, where he developed his taste for contemporary design. As a founding member of the Union des Artistes Modernes (UAM) in 1929, Templier was a pioneer of the Art Deco movement, distinguished by his geometric, streamlined jewelry. He combined metals and precious stones in innovative compositions that reflected the spirit of his age.

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  • Retro gold band braceletVintage gold bracelet

    Retro band bracelet

    5600,00€

    Retro band bracelet in 18 karat yellow and white gold. Large bracelet made of a flexible articulated mesh forming diamond-shaped motifs in white and yellow gold. Bracelet, circa 1950-1960.

    Hallmark 750, hallmark “MEP”, owl hallmarks

    Length: 19.5 cm
    Width: 2.1 cm

    Note: two safety clasps on the main clasp
    Condition: slight wear scratches

    Weight : 62,30 gr

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  • Clip brooch in gold from Louis HeisslerRetro lapel clip with sapphires

    Retro French sapphire lapel clip

    2300,00€

    Retro French sapphire lapel clip in 18 karat gold. Cylindrical and geometric lapel clip decorated with a line of four calibrated synthetic sapphires. This lapel clip can be worn on a jacket or as a brooch. Dating from the Retro period and designed in the style of Mauboussin, it was made by Louis Heissler, circa 1935/1940 in France.

    Eagle head hallmark and hallmark of the Louis Heissler workshop, which worked for Mauboussin from the 1940s to the 1960s, numbered.

    Dimensions: 32 x 22 mm

    Estimated sapphire weight: 0.08 carat

    Condition: light scratches from use

    Weight : 10.69 gr

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  • Silver leopard wood braceletbracelet tête de léopards en bois

    Silver ebony leopard heads bracelet

    800,00€

    Silver ebony leopard heads bracelet, bracelet in ebony wood and gilded silver (vermeil). The ends of the bracelet feature two finely engraved leopard heads in gilded sterling silver. The two sculptures are similar but not identical. The heads face each other and close over the top of the wrist. Vintage bracelet in the style of Gay Frères for Hermès, circa 1960-1970.

    Two crab hallmarks, illegible maker’s mark, and 10M marks.

    Internal diameter: 15.5 cm (fits all wrists)
    Ebony width: 11 mm
    Dimensions of one head: 14 mm x 30 mm

    Condition: wear and tear

    Weight: 48.24 gr

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  • projet de broches raymond templierprojet de broches raymond templier

    Raymond Templier sports jewelry project

    3000,00€

    Raymond Templier Sports jewelry project

    Boxing jewelry project in nickel silver depicting a boxer in position, ready to attack or defend. The construction of the jewelry gives a 3D impression. This piece likely served as a model for a silver belt featured in the Belgian newspaper “Les Sports,” 1944 (shown on p. 110 of “Raymond Templier, Le bijou moderne” by Laurence Mouillefarine and Véronique Ristelhueber), and for a trophy for a 1944 boxing championship for which a version was made (see photo). It may also have inspired a brooch project, with several representing other sports reproduced in the aforementioned book “Raymond Templier.” Circa 1944, France. Sport jewelry collection.

    Height: 6 cm
    Width: 4.5 cm

    Note : This blank has no rear fastener.
    Condition: oxidations

    Weight: 9.60 gr

     

    Tennis jewelry project in brass depicting a tennis player with a racket in hand. This project is probably the draft of the final gold jewelry piece shown on p. 107 in the book “Raymond Templier, Le bijou moderne” by Laurence Mouillefarine and Véronique Ristelhueber. It represents Henri Cochet and his characteristic racket movement. The motif also appears on the Challenge Tennis-Club de Reims cup from 1947, reproduced on p. 109 in the previously mentioned book. Circa 1942, France. Sport jewelry collection.

    Height: 7 cm
    Width: 6 cm

    Note : This blank has no rear fastener.
    Condition: oxidations

    Weight: 3.33 gr

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  • Antique poissarde earrings enamelledBoucles d'oreille fleur de lys en or

    Large French enameled poissardes

    2500,00€

    Large French enameled poissardes in 18k yellow gold. Large pair of earrings called “poissardes” adorned with an oval-shaped purple enamel motif. In the center, a silver fleur-de-lis is inlaid on the enamel and set with a rose-cut diamond. French earrings, early 20th century, France.

    Eagle head hallmark (French state hallmark for 18 karat gold), B59

    Height: 5 cm
    Width: 1.8 cm

    Fleur de lys dimensions: 6 x 5 mm

    Condition: slight wear scratches, enamel restoration (invisible to the naked eye).

    Weight : 11.62 gr

    *The antique box is not sold with the jewel*

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  • bague diamant or blancdiamond cluster ring in gold

    Diamond flower ring

    950,00€

    Diamond flower ring in 18k white gold. Late Edwardian flower-shaped ring with an old-cut diamond, approx. 0.20 carat, held in place by 6 high prongs. The diamond is surrounded by 16 single-cut diamonds.

    Late Edwardian ring, circa 1930-1940.

    Owl hallmark (french state hallmark for 18 karat gold)

    Finger size: 54 UE or 6.75 US (can be changed)

    Bezel diameter: 13 mm

    Estimated weight of central diamond: 0.20 ct

    Total estimated diamond weight : 0.28 ct

    Weight : 3.91 gr

    *The antique box is not sold with the jewel*

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  • bague tank en or blancbague tank diamants platine

    Tank diamond asymmetrical ring

    2200,00€

    Tank diamond asymmetrical ring in 18k white gold. Tank ring from the 1940s, set with a line of six diamonds, from small to large. Two are old-cut and four are single-cut. The ring is geometrically shaped and asymmetrical in volume. Tank ring, circa 1940.

    Owl hallmark (French State hallmark for 18 karat gold).

    Finger size: 51 or 5.5 US (sizing possible)

    Ring head width: 15 mm

    Estimated diamond weight: 0.34 ct

    Condition : light scratches from use. Rhodium plating available on request.

    Weight : 14 gr

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  • Antique gold chain braceletrectangular mesh gold bracelet

    Paperclip chain bracelet

    520,00€

    Paperclip chain bracelet in 18 karat rose gold. The bracelet is made of rectangular links with rounded edges, in solid gold, and measures 19.5 cm. Antique bracelet, circa 1930-1940, France.

    Eagle head hallmark (French state hallmark for 18 karat gold) and Ligneul goldsmith’s hallmark.

    Length: 19.5 cm

    Condition: nice patina and fine wear scratches.

    Weight : 5.15 gr

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  • Bague cocktail perle saphir en orRetro pearl sapphire ring

    Sapphire pearl cocktail ring

    1250,00€

    Sapphire pearl cocktail ring in 18 karat (750) yellow gold. Cocktail  ring centered on a 9 mm-diameter flat-bottomed pearl surrounded by 14 natural blue round sapphires. The ring has a large openwork basket 8 mm high. Retro ring, circa 1940.

    Owl hallmark (french state hallmark for 18 karat gold)

    Finger circumference: 55 UE or 7.25 (can be changed)

    Ring head diameter: 16 mm
    Basket height: 12 mm (with pearl); 8 mm (without pearl)

    Total estimated sapphire weight: 1.10 carats

    Condition: light scratches

    Weight : 8.10 gr

    *The antique box is not sold with the jewel*

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  • Aquamarine clip lapel in gold

    Aquamarine clip brooch

    3300,00€

    Aquamarine clip brooch in 18 karat yellow gold and platinum. Retro period lapel clip in the form of a trapezoid ribbon, centered on a large pear-cut aquamarine weighing approx. 7.17 carats. The clip is decorated with platinum bands set with 13 rose-cut diamonds. Retro period lapel clip, circa 1940.

    Owl and mascaron hallmarks (french state hallmark for 18 karat gold and platinum)

    Dimensions: 41 mm x 26 mm

    Aquamarine dimensions: 26.4 x 12 x 6.10 mm

    Estimated aquamarine weight: 7.17 carats
    Estimated diamond weight: 0.13 carat

    Condition: lightly scratched, oxidized

    Weight : 15.84 gr

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  • Napoleon III coin gold ringBague pièce 10 francs en or

    Napoleon III coin ring

    920,00€

    Napoleon III coin ring in 18 karat gold (750). The 18k gold ring is setted with a 10-franc Napoleon III gold coin, bare head, dating from 1856 and made in Paris in 21.6k gold. The coin is set in a Retro mount with a large openwork heart frieze. Retro ring, circa 1950, Second Empire piece, France.

    Eagle head hallmark (french state hallmark for 18 karat gold) and illegible goldsmith’s hallmark.

    Finger size: 52 or 6 US (can be changed)

    Diameter: 19 mm
    Height of basket: 6 mm

    Coin information: 10 francs Napoléon III, bare head, 1856, Paris workshop, gold assay 900/1000

    Condition: scratches from use

    Weight : 7.52 gr

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