At the beginning of the 20th century brooches are very fashionable, the Art Nouveau brooches are often decorated with flowers, female profiles and composed of enamel, pearls, fine stones. The great masters of Art Nouveau play with shapes, materials and create extremely delicate jewelry.
Art Nouveau brooches
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New
1500,00€Art Nouveau pendant brooch in 18 karat gold and platinum. An Art Nouveau-period pendant brooch decorated with “whiplash” lines typical of the 1900s. It is set with 56 rose-cut diamonds. The two lines meet in the center at the level of two larger old-cut diamonds. One weighs approximately 0.33 carat, the other 0.10 carat. The brooch is in platinum and the clasp is in white gold. There are two rings on the back of the jewel to enable it to be worn as a pendant. Art Nouveau brooch pendant, circa 1900, France.
Eagle head hallmark, goldsmith’s hallmark and numbering.
Dimensions: 40 x 20 mm
Weight of the two main diamonds: 0.33 ct and 0.10 ct
Estimated total diamond weight: 1.25 ctNote : This jewel can be worn as a pendant
Condition: scratches from use, probably missing a tassel at the bottom.
Weight: 7.49 g
Historical and technical point: Rose-cutting dates back to the 14th century. It is dome-shaped, with 3, 6 or 9 facets and straight or rounded sides. It’s a cut that has almost disappeared today, but which can be found with pleasure in antique jewelry.
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600,00€Edwardian diamond pearl arrow brooch in 18 karats rose gold and silver. Brooch featuring an arrow with 22 diamonds on the tip and tail, and a fine pearl on the shaft (diameter approx. 4.9 mm). Antique brooch, late 19th – early 20th century.
Partially inscribed owl hallmark (French State hallmark for 18 karat gold).
Dimensions: 10 x 52 mm
Estimated total diamond weight: 0.11 caratCondition: light scratches and oxidation
Weight : 3.75 gr
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680,00€Fleur-de-lis gold brooch in 18k (750) hollow gold. Brooch in the shape of a fleur-de-lis, adorned with three fine pearls in a cartouche.
France, antique brooch circa 1900.
Eagle head hallmark (french state hallmark for 18 karat gold)
Dimensions: 35 x 28 mm
Condition: signs of use
Weight: 4.29 gr
Symbolism: The lily has been a symbol of royalty for centuries. The fleur-de-lis is believed to have appeared for the first time on the scepter of Charles the Bald (823-877), the grandson of Charlemagne. The French royalty, therefore, chose this emblem just as other reigning European families chose the eagle, lion, or leopard. For centuries, until the revolution, the fleur-de-lis became a heraldic symbol on monuments, currency, clothing and tapestries, sculptures, statues, art objects, paintings… To express their opposition to monarchy and Catholicism, the revolutionaries destroyed numerous sites and artworks marked by this symbol.
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1200,00€Brooch Art Nouveau woman in pink gold 18 karats. Oval brooch worked in openwork, with decoration of woman in profile surrounded by irises flowers. The elegant lady is adorned with a necklace of five rose-cut diamonds and an earring with a similarly cut diamond. The woman is treated to a gentle movement effect and lets the irises slip through her fingers. Art Nouveau brooch, circa 1910.
Eagle head hallmark and illegible goldsmith’s hallmark.
Dimensions: 26 x 36 mm
Note: the attachment system works. There is a fastener on the reverse side, probably to hold a last element, now missing.
Condition: oxidation, scratches from useWeight : 7.25 gr
*The antique box is not sold with the jewel*
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1150,00€Art Nouveau enamel brooch in yellow gold 18 karats. Brooch of triangular form with lines in “whiplash”, decorated with flowers of iris in the center. The work on the gold is particularly strong and delicate. In the openwork parts, the goldsmith has applied an enamel called “plique à jour” of a mauve color. The enamel is unevenly deposited and slightly milky. On the reverse side, the brooch is chiseled with a floral motif that also gives it movement. In the lower part, a hoop was added afterwards, which allows the brooch to be worn as a pendant. Brooch – pendant in plique enamel of the Art Nouveau period, circa 1910.
Owl hallmark
Dimensions: 29 mm x 25 mm
Note: the closing system works, with a security system.
Weight : 12,47 gr
*The antique box is not sold with the jewel*
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450,00€Jugendstil enamelled brooch in silver (800). Antique triangular brooch forming a stylised butterfly. The jewel is centered of a faceted purple glass imitating the amethyst. The brooch is also enamelled, taking the colors of a gradient going from the light pink to the purple. The three enameled bands frame the central stone. The brooch has the lines of the German Art Nouveau period, the Jugendstil. On the reverse, the jewel bears a monogram MM. German Art Nouveau brooch, Jugendstil jewel, probably from Pforzheim, circa 1915.
Swan hallmark, Hallmark 800, unknown German jeweler’s mark “MM”
Size: 1.5 cm x 3.5 cm
Note: the fastening system works
Condition: scratches and chips to the center stoneWeight : 4.66 gr
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450,00€Biarritz Art Nouveau brooch in yellow gold 9 karat. The brooch takes the form of a shell (a mussel) on which it is written “Biarritz” in black and blue enamel. Around, a floral decoration colored by green enamels and a pearl inlaid in relief. Brooch of the early twentieth century, Art Nouveau period. French jewel.
Trefoil hallmark
Dimensions: 1.4 x 2.6 cm
Size of the pearl: 3 mm approximately
Note: the fastening system works.
Weight: 4,11 gr
Historical point: since 1784, the sea baths of Biarritz are in fashion and Napoleon bathes there in 1808. Later, the Empress Eugenie, who came several times with her family, convinced her husband Napoleon III to make it their holiday resort. Following the construction of the Biarritz salt baths, the city experienced a great boom in the years 1900-1920 thanks to the international tourism that developed there. Coco Chanel opened her 3rd boutique there in 1915.
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580,00€Arts & Crafts brooch by Barnet Henry Joseph (1865-1929), in rose and yellow 9 karat gold. The brooch has a triangular shape and is composed of openwork interlacing. It is a typical pattern of English Art Nouveau movement, also called Arts & Crafts. In the center, a pink quartz cabochon adorns the piece in a serrated setting. The composition is decorated with a fine elongated pearl (not tested), also called a soufflure. English brooch made by Henry Joseph Barnet, circa 1910.
Signed BHJ on the reverse. Trefoil hallmark
Dimensions : 4 cm x 3,5 cm
Weight : 4,93 gr
B.H. Joseph & Co, a jewellery manufacturing and selling company, was started by Barnet Henry Joseph and his brother Henry Joseph in 1865 in Birmingham. From 1878, B.H. Joseph & Co opened showrooms in London and was considered one of the most famous jewellery houses. They made many designs and this pendant is a good example of an Arts & Crafts style.