Regional jewelry includes antique jewelry from the regions of France, emblematic of a time when traditional costumes were accompanied by jewelry. Among these typical 19th century jewelry, we can mention Savoyard creoles, Poissard earrings, antique Jeannette crosses, jewelry from Puy-en-Velay, Bressan enamel jewelry, Perpignan garnets, Saint-Esprit pendants, West Indian bracelets, etc. Despite the disappearance of regional costumes, there are still some regions where women have kept the tradition of wearing their regional jewelry during festivals and in everyday life.
In this article, we present regional jewelry that has survived the ages, such as Norman jewelry, Perpignan garnet jewelry, Mediterranean coral jewelry, those from the Antilles and other lesser-known but equally interesting typical jewelry. We also tell you where to buy them in Paris and the rest of France. Finally, we recommend museums to discover concerning this fabulous French jewelry heritage.
French regional jewelry
Some French regions have prospered better than others. Thus, antique jewelry from the South of France, Normandy and the Antilles have benefited from a wider diffusion and existence over time.
Garnet jewelry from Perpignan
In the 1750s, garnet deposits were discovered near Estagel by the inhabitants of Perpignan. This discovery probably led to an increase in the use of garnet in this region of France at that time. However, it is difficult to date precisely the appearance of Perpignan garnets in Catalan jewelry, although some local masterpieces date from the 1700s.
Perpignan garnet jewelry is distinguished by its specific cut, called “Perpignan cut,” and its particular mounting. The terms “Perpignan Garnet” and “Perpignan cut” are protected, thus placing these jewels in the exceptional heritage of Roussillon.
Today, only ten workshops continue to produce these iconic jewels using traditional techniques.
Among these antique jewels typical of the South of France, we find slave necklaces, marquise rings, bracelets, some rare poissardes and antique pins.
Antique jewelry from Normandy
Normandy, a rich agricultural province, financed its own invasions and conquered England in 1066 thanks to its fertile lands and varied resources. In the mid-18th century, it was home to some of the earliest regional French jewelry, which quickly evolved into a variety of distinct forms. Norman jewelers adopted rhinestone as soon as it was invented in Germany, replacing cut quartz stones. Unlike Flanders and Provence, Norman jewelry never incorporated diamonds.
Among these old jewels typical of Normandy, we often find old crosses: the bosse cross pendants accompanied by a curved heart-shaped slide, the Rouen crosses, the Saint Lô crosses, etc. But also brooches, buttons, belt buckles, enameled slave necklaces often composed of jaseron mesh chains and barrel or flat clasps with enameled flower motifs or sentimental messages, Yvetot necklaces, etc.
These Norman jewels are sometimes in gold, sometimes in silver and exclusively set with rhinestones.
Mediterranean coral jewelry
In ancient times, fishing was practiced in the Mediterranean. In the 19th century, coral jewelry developed in the South of France, in Marseille, Cassis, Corsica, etc. In Italy, jewelry creation flourished in Torre del Greco, where the Liverino coral collection can be found since 1986, or in Sicily in Trapani.
Mediterranean coral jewelry comes in many forms: bracelets of faceted coral beads or sticks, multi-strand bracelets of smooth beads, necklaces of round beads, dangling earrings with drop coral, coral cameos set on brooches and rings, coral buttons mounted on rings.
Coral can be red, but these colors can vary, ranging from white to pink (angel skin coral), orange, and even black and gold. The most sought-after shades are “blood coral” and “angel skin.”
Currently, most coral species are protected by CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora.
Antique West Indian jewelry
Traditional West Indian jewelry has names inspired by local history, fauna or flora: apple cinnamon, “tété négresse”, twisted chain, big syrup necklace, forced chain, golden grain necklace, wasp nest brooch, cabbage necklace, etc.
Creole jewelry is rather imposing. Their size requires goldsmiths to make them in fairly thin gold sheets worked in superpositions. The shades of gold often vary, going from yellow to green and pink. The material also varies in order to obtain varied patterns: in til, in balls, in plates superimposed in stages.
Best Places to Buy Regional Jewelry
We present you a list of galleries where you can buy antique jewelry from French regions. These galleries specialize in precious jewelry authenticated by expert gemologists.
Mohs House
At Maison Mohs we present a wide range of regional antique jewelry. Most often regional crosses such as Jeanette crosses, devout crosses, Puy-en-Velay crosses, Limousin ecotée crosses, Huguenot crosses, Bresse enamel crosses, etc.
We also have a beautiful selection of jewelry from the South of France such as Catalan jewelry, garnets from Perpignan, a bracelet from Roussillon and Provencal jewelry: Arles cross, glass églomisé pendant, drapery rings and necklace, Mediterranean coral jewelry).
Norman jewelry is also well represented with Yvetot necklaces, Saint Esprit pendants, enameled clasps (flat clasps, barrel clasps, barrel clasps) and old fish hooks.
If you would like to try on an antique piece of jewelry, appraise a ring or a precious stone, simply make an appointment and we will be happy to welcome you to our offices in the heart of the Marais.
Pebble Paris
The Caillou Paris gallery presents quality regional jewelry, you can find antique jewelry in Perpignan garnets, so-called “Savoyard” earrings, Provencal jewelry in gold and silver set with diamonds (antique necklaces and earrings), briquet earrings, Norman jewelry, Bourges stick crosses, etc.
Site : caillou-paris.fr
Instagram : @caillou.paris
Make an appointment for a fitting: contact@caillou-paris.fr
Tsarina Jewelry
For over 30 years, the Bijoux Tsarina gallery has been offering display items and antique jewelry. In its gallery on proantic.com, you will find a range of precious jewelry including antique regional jewelry in Bresse enamels (drapery necklaces and earrings), Napoleon III Mediterranean coral jewelry and antique regional crosses.
Site : proantic.com/galerie/bijoux-tsarina/
Museums on regional jewelry
For lovers of history and jewelry, we recommend visiting certain museums when you travel around France during weekends and holidays.
Antique jewelry from Puy-en-Velay
If you are in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, you can visit the Puy-en-Velay museum, the Crozatier museum where you will find traditional jewelry from the region.
Site : Crozatier Museum
Antique Provençal jewelry
If you spend your weekend or your vacation in Provence, go to the Provençal Museum of Costume and Jewelry created by Hélène Costa, a lady with an immoderate taste for Provençal traditions. Throughout her life, she collected an impressive number of Provençal clothing as well as jewelry typical of this region that was so dear to her. This collection gave rise to the opening in 1997 of the Provençal Museum of Costume and Jewelry.
Site : https://usines-parfum.fragonard.com/musees/le-musee-du-costume/
Antique jewelry in New Aquitaine
If you go to New Aquitaine, don't miss the Bernard d'Agesci Museum in Niort . You will find a beautiful collection of authentic jewelry such as ancient crosses, brooches, clothing jewelry, gold slides, drapery and slavery necklaces and capelet rings.
Site : musees.niortagglo.fr
Antique jewelry from Normandy
If you are visiting Honfleur, stop by and see the Museum of Ethnography and Popular Art , you will see a collection of Norman jewelry.
Site : museums-honfleur.fr
Bonus: the site to find out everything about regional jewelry “Les bijoux des Français”
