Garnet jewelry from Perpignan

The history of Perpignan garnet jewelry

In the 1750s, the inhabitants of Perpignan discovered deposits of garnet near Estagel. For this reason, it is likely that the use of garnet increased in this region of France during this period. However, it is much more difficult to precisely date the first appearances of Perpignan garnet in Catalan jewelry. Some masterpieces of local jewelry date back to the 1700s. An emblematic jewel of the region, today there are only ten workshops that manufacture jewelry according to the old traditional specifications.

Composition and style of Perpignan garnet jewelry

As garnets are becoming scarce in the region, it is known that they are imported from Burma to meet the growing demand for these exceptional jewels.

Perpignan garnet jewelry is recognizable by its specific cut, called the "Perpignan cut" and the way it is mounted. The terms "Perpignan Garnet" and "Perpignan cut" are protected, thus forming part of the exceptional heritage of the Roussillon region.

Since the 18th century, garnets have been cut in this way or more commonly, in a rose shape like diamonds. This is one of the oldest stone cuts: the stone has a conical shape. This is made up of a large flat base that supports a more or less rounded dome, formed by the juxtaposition of triangular facets. This cut is perfectly suited to the closed setting technique used in this region. The garnet is placed between a setting (the wall) and a base. The whole gives what is called the bezel. In order to improve the brightness and brilliance of the garnet, a red-tinted spangle (silver leaf) is placed at the bottom of the bezel. This spangle will serve to reflect the light and brighten the colors of the stone.

Stones on paillon were very common in the 19th and 20th centuries. Topazes and citrines from Brazil were commonly used to make Catalan jewelry. The gems are cut with a brilliant or cushion-shaped pavilion (like the Perpignan garnet, without a pavilion, cut in rose). A red paillon is placed under the stone to give it a heart with a red and yellow reflection. These jewels were made in the Puy en Velay region.

Garnet jewelry from Perpignan, how much does it cost?

The value of antique garnet jewelry from Perpignan

The value of Catalan jewelry is determined by several criteria: age, rarity, color of the garnet and condition.

Antique Perpignan garnet jewelry is rare due to its age and fragility. Indeed, it is very difficult to find rings, bracelets, necklaces, or even earrings without dents, dents, and holes. Since gold is thin and hollow, it has a hard time surviving the centuries.

The color of the spangles under the garnets has sometimes not been well preserved. Indeed, jewelry set with stones on spangles does not support water and humidity. If the Catalan jewel ends up - for one reason or another - under water, the red dye of the silver spangle will fade, thus making the much-loved red/raspberry reflection disappear.

Where to find old Perpignan garnet jewelry?

Ancient Catalan jewelry can be seen in museums: in 2023, in Grasse, the Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou of the Fragonard perfumery is dedicating an exhibition to the Catalan tradition of garnet jewelry. The permanent exhibition of the Palais des Rois de Majorque was used to present fashion trends from the Roussillon region, also known as the Pyrénées-Orientales region. The Garnet Institute that created this exhibition and the jewelers of the Confrérie Le Grenat de Perpignan helped to bring together private and public collections.

Authentic antique Catalan jewelry can also be found for sale in specialized jewelry galleries. Maison Mohs has some for sale, including a drapery necklace, a flower ring and a barrette brooch. All of these jewels date from the 19th century.

The value of new or used Perpignan garnet jewelry

Jewelry from the late 20th century is easier to find, as there are still workshops manufacturing it. Since the know-how is protected, some jewelers continue to make garnet jewelry.

The Perpignan Garnet Institute refers to various Roussillon artisan jewelers such as: Calvet jewelry, Bonafos jewelry, etc.

Maison Mohs offers for sale some second-hand Catalan jewelry, including a pair of sleepers and a bracelet made of brazil stones (topaz/citrine from Brazil).