Materials & Gemstones

Agate

Agate is a variety of chalcedony, derived from microcrystalline quartz, recognizable by its concentric zones and unique patterns. Used since antiquity as a talisman and ornament, it holds an important place in antique jewelry. Its contrasting layers make it an ideal stone for cameos and intaglios. It also lends itself perfectly to cabochon cutting, which reveals its natural lines and nuances. Its colors range from white to gray, blue to green, and even brown, yellow, or red, giving rise to varieties such as nicolo, banded, eye, dendritic, and moss agate.

Amethyst

Amethyst is a variety of purple quartz that, when heated, changes color to yellow and is then called citrine (by artificial heat treatment). Its name derives from the Greek "amethystos", meaning "not drunk", in reference to its supposed virtues which protected against drunkenness. Highly prized since Antiquity, it has adorned many jewels over the centuries, notably bishop's rings, imposing religious jewels. Its shades range from mauve to violet deep.

Citrine

Citrine is a naturally rare yellow quartz, whose name derives from the Latin "citrus", meaning "lemon". This gemstone was prized in Roussillon jewelry in the 19th century, as well as during the reign of Charles X. Its color, varying from pale yellow to dark yellow, can also be tinged with orange-brown, also called Madeira citrine, a highly sought-after color.

Coral

Coral has been used in jewelry since Antiquity and experienced a revival during the 1st and 2nd Empires, where it adorned entire sets and combs decorating hairstyles. In the 1930s, it was incorporated into Art Deco jewelry, distinguishing itself by its contrast with onyx, rock crystal, and turquoise, which were popular at the time. Coral, available in a variety of colors such as orange, red, pink (angel skin), black, and gold, can be smooth or faceted. Typical of Mediterranean jewelry, it is worked in workshops in Marseille, Cassis and mainly in Torre del Greco in Italy.

Diamond

Diamond is a rare gemstone, formed millions of years ago under conditions of extreme temperatures and pressure. Its name comes from the Greek "adamas", meaning "invincible", in reference to its exceptional hardness. Composed of pure carbon, it reaches level 10 on the Mohs scale. The "4Cs" – Carat (weight), Color (color), Clarity (purity) and Cut (size) – are used to evaluate its value and its beauty. Used in antique jewelry, it is often associated with love and engagement. The main producers of diamonds are Russia, Botswana and Australia, and the diamond remains a symbol of luxury and elegance.

Emerald

Emerald is a variety of beryl, whose name derives from the Greek "smaragdos" and the Latin "smaragdus", meaning "green stone". Rarely clear, it is characterized by natural inclusions, nicknamed the "gardens" of the emerald. Throughout history, the craze for this gemstone has not ceased, although it experienced a decline in popularity during Art Nouveau and the 1940s. Its color, which varies from yellow-green to blue-green, is attributed to the elements chromium and vanadium. The most prized emeralds are those with a deep, velvety hue, often found in Colombia, the world's leading producer. This gem is particularly sought after for its beauty and rarity.

Garnet

Garnet was very fashionable throughout the 19th century, especially in antique jewelry, where its intense red color was highly prized. Perpignan garnets, known for their typical setting and raspberry-red color, adorned many pieces of jewelry from the Pyrénées-Orientales and were exported to Algeria and Spain. Bohemian garnets, popular in Central Europe, were found in delicate creations of the time. A symbol of passion, garnet became a popular choice for special occasions.

Gold

Gold is a precious metal highly valued for its beauty and durability. Malleable, it can be alloyed with other metals such as silver, copper or zinc to make it more resistant. The purity of gold is measured in thousandths (‰), with pure gold being 1,000 thousandths. Common gold jewelry is often made of 750‰ gold, equivalent to 18 carats. Gold can also come in different colors: yellow gold, which contains silver and copper, pink gold, enriched with copper, and white gold, which incorporates palladium and silver. Since 1994, 18-carat gold jewelry (750‰) must be marked with a hallmark, such as the eagle's head or the owl hallmark, guaranteeing their quality.

Jade

Jade, especially jadeite jade, is a rare stone that has been prized for millennia for its beauty and symbolism. It is often found in antique jewelry, particularly in elegant designs from the Art Deco period, often contrasted with onyx. Refined and mysterious, it is distinguished from nephrite jade by its composition, color and shine. The most sought-after color is "imperial jade", reminiscent of the intensity of the green of the emerald, although jade can also be yellow, white, lavender, black, and more. A symbol of prestige and serenity, it remains a must-have in the history of jewelry.

Lapis lazuli

Lapis lazuli is a rock of an intense ultramarine blue, mainly extracted from the Badakhshan region of Afghanistan. It is composed of lazurite, sodalite, haüyne and contains inclusions of pyrite and veins of calcite. Highly prized since antiquity, it was used in Egypt and Mesopotamia for its color. Lapis lazuli was also used in the creation of ancient intaglios and cameos, and later, during the Art Deco period, it was valued for its contrast with other gemstones (coral, onyx, rock crystal). It was often carved, cut or polished into many ancient jewelry and decorative objects.

Onyx

Onyx, a variety of chalcedony, has been prized since ancient times for the creation of cameos and intaglios mounted on men's rings. In the 19th century, he knew a resurgence in popularity in keepsake or mourning jewelry, its dark hue symbolizing sobriety and contemplation. In the 1930s, he returned to the front of the stage, used on platinum for its contrast with materials such as rock crystal, lapis lazuli, coral or diamond, thus enhancing Art Deco jewelry.

Opal

Opal is a fascinating gemstone, famous for its unique and hypnotic play of light. Composed of silica and water, it forms over millions of years in specific geological conditions. Highly prized in antique jewelry, it marked the 19th century and the Art Nouveau period, sublimated by creators such as René Lalique. We distinguish between noble opal, with its multicoloured play of light, and common opal, which is monochrome and opalescent. Harlequin opals and Australian blue opals are among the most sought-after to embellish these exceptional jewels.

Pearl

The pearl is an organic gem produced by pearl mollusks, known for its orient, luster and varied colors. It is distinguished from cultured pearls, which come from mollusks raised in captivity and produced with human intervention. Pearls are formed by superimposed layers of nacre and conchiolin, creating a smooth and shiny surface. Used in antique jewelry, they are found in pearl necklaces, Art Deco jewelry, as well as in modern jewelry, not to mention those from the 19th century. Their rarity and beauty make them prized pieces in jewelry.

Platinum

In the 1930s, platinum, a rare white-gray metal, held a central place in Art Deco jewelry. Used since the 19th century, it surpassed silver in settings thanks to its strength and finesse, ideal for the geometric patterns characteristic of this style. Combined with diamonds and colored gemstones (sapphires, rubies, emeralds), it made it possible to create elegant and modern jewelry. Platinum lapel clips, rings, and necklaces embodied the refinement and innovation prized by the elite of the time. The dog head or mascaron hallmarks must be affixed to the jewel old platinum.

Rock crystal

Rock crystal, a variety of colorless quartz, has been used since ancient times and became particularly popular in Art Deco jewelry for its clarity and transparency. It combines perfectly with stones such as onyx, coral, lapis lazuli or diamond, typical of this period. In Art Deco creations, it embellishes brooches, lapel clips and earrings, bringing refinement and modernity thanks to geometric shapes, smooth or frosted. In the 1970s and 1980s, rock crystal experienced a new golden age in fine jewelry, particularly at Boucheron, which incorporated it into bold designs. Rare to find in good condition, rock crystal remains a centerpiece of antique and vintage jewelry.

Ruby

Ruby belongs to the corundum family, like sapphire, and owes its name to its red color, from the Latin "ruber". Known since the 1st millennium BC, it is rare and generally small in size, with gems of more than 4 carats being exceptional. In the 19th century, the importation of rubies from Burma and Siam considerably expanded its popularity in France. Its color varies from bright red to dark red, with the "pigeon's blood" shade being the most prized. Rubies come mainly from Burma, Sri Lanka, Kenya, as well as Tanzania and Mozambique. Their rarity and brilliance make them one of the most sought-after stones in modern and antique jewelry.

Sapphire

Sapphire, whose name derives from the Greek "sappheiros" meaning "blue", is a variety of corundum, like ruby. Less rare than ruby, it has been one of the most prized gems since around 800 BC. Its color varies from light blue to dark blue, due to the presence of iron and titanium in the stone, and there are also colorless sapphires or sapphires of different colors, such as the padparadscha sapphire, which is pinkish-orange. Kashmir sapphires, a velvety cobalt blue, are among the most sought after.

Silver

Silver, the most abundant precious metal on the surface of the earth, is widely used in jewelry due to its malleability. Until the 19th century, it was used on antique jewelry for setting diamonds before being supplanted by platinum and white gold, which were more resistant. Its accessibility and ease of work allow you to create a variety of jewelry and everyday pieces. The crab or swan hallmarks must be affixed to the antique jewel in money.