Where to get an antique piece of jewelry appraised?

Some tips for detecting the value of a jewel

Material: You don't need to be an expert to determine the material of an antique or second-hand piece of jewelry. If it has precious metal hallmarks, examine it and you will be able to deduce whether it is gold (18 karat/14 karat/9 karat), gold plated, silver or a simple metal. To recognize the hallmarks, do not hesitate to read our article " How to recognize gold ".

Precious stones: if your jewel contains stones that you know like diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire; or that you do not know, this antique jewel should attract your attention. For a little reminder on precious stones, read our article " All you need to know about precious stones "

Aesthetics: Whether it's a necklace, a ring, earrings or a bracelet, the aesthetics of the jewelry are important. Since this is a subjective criterion, ask yourself the following questions:

Is this piece of jewelry typical or atypical in its design?
Have I ever seen people wearing this type of jewelry?
Does the work of this jewel seem complex to me in its realization?
Is this jewel old?

These questions are fundamental, this will allow you to make the right decision between: going to a gemologist expert in second-hand or antique jewelry; putting it up for sale on a second-hand platform.

Antique gold and silver engagement ring, covered with marcasites

Know where to have an antique jewel appraised

There are many professionals in the jewelry industry (gemologists, experts, antique dealers, auctioneers and jewelers), but they have gaps in expertise in certain areas of jewelry. Take a look:

A gemologist is a professional who deals with the identification, evaluation and classification of all precious stones, organic and ornamental. He is qualified to identify and evaluate the authenticity of gemstones based on their physical, chemical and optical characteristics. In case of doubt, the gemologist goes to a laboratory to analyze the stone in question.

Free expertise (unless you request the preparation of a laboratory certificate)

However, you should know that gemologists are rarely knowledgeable in the "history of jewelry". They will therefore be able to inform you about the quality and price of your precious stones, but not about the price of the jewelry as a whole.

An antique jewelry expert is a person who specializes in authenticating, evaluating, buying, and selling antique jewelry. They are most often specialized antique dealers with experience and in-depth knowledge of antique jewelry, the techniques used to make it, and precious metals.

Free expertise (unless you request the preparation of a laboratory certificate), repurchase of jewelry and resale, repurchase of broken jewelry

However, it is rare to find an antique dealer who is also a gemologist, so find out about your contact's background before asking for a free appraisal.

An auctioneer is a professional in the art market who is responsible for organizing and conducting public auctions. He is responsible for estimating and selling movable or immovable property, collections or objects of art, and settling transactions between the buyer and the seller. The auctioneer is the equivalent of a general practitioner: he is competent in the appraisal of a multitude of art objects and jewelry in general; but he will not be able to give the most accurate estimate and appraisal of your fine stones and antique jewelry if the latter is neither a gemologist nor specialized in antique jewelry. Once again, find out about the background of your contact before asking him for an appraisal of the jewelry you have in your possession.

Free expertise (unless you request the preparation of a laboratory certificate)

A jeweler is a person who makes, sells and/or repairs antique, second-hand and new jewelry. They have a comprehensive knowledge of jewelry making techniques. However, don't be fooled by appearances, jewelers have no knowledge of gemology, so their expertise of your gemstones will not be fair and necessarily accurate.

Free estimate (unless you request a laboratory certificate), jewelry creation, jewelry engraving, jewelry repair, jewelry transformations

You may be wondering why these trades cannot give you a complete appraisal of your jewelry?

Gemology is often a skill that is lacking in these professions. As a result, it is difficult to have a real free expertise of your fine stones. Training in gemology is a very expensive discipline, which is provided by few establishments in France and which lasts for a long period (between 1 to 4 years). Few professionals have the time, the finances and the possibilities to complete this training. Lucky for you, Angéline Chanson from Maison Mohs is both a gemologist and an expert in antique jewelry. As a result, she can inform you about the two aspects that constitute the value of your jewelry: the gem and the work of the jeweler! To find out more about our gemologist, click here.

What is the purpose of a jewel appraisal?

The appraisal of jewelry allows to evaluate their value at a given moment T. It is carried out by a qualified professional mentioned above, who examines the jewel and establishes a detailed report informing on the authenticity of the jewel, its quality, its age and its market value. This appraisal is useful for an accurate estimate during commercial transactions (resale of jewelry or repurchase of jewelry), during an inheritance or a donation, as well as for insurance against theft.

The appraised value is not fixed in time

The estimate or price range of a piece of jewelry can change over time. Why? It all depends on markets like gold price and diamond price, trends and types of jewelry. So, the value can change over time, depending on market conditions and fashion.

Good reasons to buy an antique jewel

Art Deco brooch set with diamonds and a moonstone

Buying old is more responsible and less expensive

Did you know? Extracting 3 grams of gold (the equivalent of a ring) requires 1,500 liters of water and 100 grams of cyanide released into the environment. It takes about700 tons of stone to find 320 grams of diamonds. Every year, hundreds of miners die in mines and operations. While our drawers are full of old jewelry that we don't wear, it is now a responsible and essential step to put this jewelry back on the market and bring it back into the economy. We are talking about a circular economy, virtuous, because it consumes little or no resources.

The margins on new jewelry are significant because you often have to pay for a well-known brand that is sometimes in a prestigious and therefore expensive location, and that runs large and costly marketing campaigns. Old jewelry has already recouped these costs for a long time, which allows it to be offered cheaper, at equivalent quality, than new jewelry. For the same model, you should know that second-hand jewelry costs 20 to 40% less than new models.

Buying old means having a unique piece of jewelry tinged with history.

The problem with jewelry is that jewelry models are not unique. So, everyone can buy them. And what could be more unpleasant than finding yourself with the same engagement ring as your neighbor at the table? In the world of antique jewelry, this problem is non-existent: at the time, there was no mass production of series. So you can find similar pieces, in the same style, but your jewelry will always be a unique piece.

Antique jewelry always has its own story. Either we know it personally, or History will tell it to us.

Why were silver brooches set with diamonds made at the end of the 19th century? Because diamond production exploded at that time, and the cost of the gemstone fell.
Why did this lady ask for an emerald to be set between two onyxes? Because the color codes of the Art Deco period required contrast.

Fashions, crises and styles influence the course of the history of jewelry. By deciding to buy an antique jewel, we decide to carry this History in our turn and add our own little personal story to it.

Our article “ How to recognize a diamond on a ring? ” may also interest you.