How to read antique jewelry hallmarks and understand their value ?
If you own a piece of antique jewelry or are considering purchasing one, one of the first things you should do is look for a hallmark . This small, often discreet, marking can reveal a lot of information about the composition, provenance, jeweler, and value of your jewelry. In this article, we explain how to identify the main hallmarks on antique jewelry and what they mean.
What is a jewelry hallmark?
A hallmark is an official mark affixed (inscribed) to a piece of jewelry by a testing body or by the manufacturer. It is used to certify:
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the nature of the precious metal (gold, silver, platinum),
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the purity of the metal (18k, 14k, 9k, etc.),
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the possible origin of the jewel (country, period),
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the identity of the jewelry workshop or craftsman.
Hallmarks are generally struck on discreet areas: the outside of a ring, the clasp of a necklace, the post of an earring, etc.
The main French hallmarks
In France, precious metal jewelry must be hallmarked by customs or a warranty office. Here are the main hallmarks to know:
Gold hallmarks
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Eagle head : 18-carat gold (750/1000).
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Owl : 18-carat gold (750/1000).
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Scallop shell head : 14 carat gold (585/1000).
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Clover : 9 carat gold (375/1000).
Silver hallmarks
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Head of Minerva : solid silver (925/1000 or 800/1000 depending on the model).
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Crab : 800/1000 silver.
- Boar's head : 800/1000 silver.
- Swan : for second-hand silver works.
Platinum hallmarks
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Dog's head : platinum (950/1000).
- Mascaron : for second-hand platinum works.
Goldsmith's hallmarks
It is a diamond-shaped hallmark with the initials of the maker or craftsman and a symbol.
How to read an antique jewelry hallmark?
To properly decipher a hallmark, you need to look at three aspects:
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The shape : diamond, oval, square...
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The pattern : animal, number, letter, symbol.
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Size : The punches are sometimes tiny, a magnifying glass can be useful.
It is common to find several hallmarks on the same piece of jewelry: the guarantee hallmark (official) and the manufacturer's hallmark.
Why do hallmarks influence the value of a piece of jewelry?
The hallmark provides tangible proof of the authenticity and quality of the metal . It is a key criterion for:
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Estimate the market value of a piece of jewelry,
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Check the authenticity of a piece,
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Identify an era or style (e.g.: hallmark specific to the 19th century).
A piece of jewelry without a hallmark can be suspect, unless it is very old or has disappeared over time.
5. What should you do if your jewelry does not have a visible hallmark?
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Use a magnifying glass to inspect all parts of the jewelry.
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Consult an antique jewelry specialist for a more in-depth analysis.
Conclusion
Deciphering the hallmarks of an antique piece of jewelry is like reading a small fragment of history. It's an essential step for any antique jewelry collector or enthusiast who wants to make a serious and informed purchase.
Do you have an antique piece of jewelry and want to know its value or vintage? Bring it to Maison Mohs for a detailed analysis, or discover our selection of certified antique jewelry, all inspected and authenticated.
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