Antique watch rings, the must have

Watch rings, an ingenious piece of jewelry

Jewelry has always been more than just ornaments. It tells a story, embodies social status, or even conceals closely guarded secrets. Among these fascinating antique jewels, the watch ring holds a special place. Part watchmaking feat, part fashion item, it has spanned the ages, constantly reinventing itself.

Art Deco watch ring in 18k gold, sapphires and diamond, at Maison Mohs

Invention of the watch ring

Since the Renaissance, the idea of ​​miniaturizing watch mechanisms has captivated watchmakers. An inventory dating from 1618 already mentions " a gold ring with a clock to tell the time," proof of the fascination for these refined "jewelry-objects." But it was in 1753 that Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais, a genius watchmaker before becoming the author of The Marriage of Figaro , developed a new escapement* that revolutionized the precision of small watches. These antique ring-watches, created for Madame de Pompadour and Louis XV, lost only one second per week, a feat for the time!

Watch ring attributed to Piguet, offered by Emperor Napoleon I to Marshal Berthier, circa 1810

These precious jewels quickly became luxury items prized by the aristocracy. One of the most famous models was provided to the Marquis de Vernouillet in 1774: a watch ring adorned with a diamond border and button.

Evolution of the watch ring

The rise of the watch ring

From the late 18th century onwards, these ring watches were adorned with symbols and inscriptions, often in enamel or engraving. Some depicted romantic scenes and were given as tokens of love, reinforcing their status as sentimental and refined jewelry. During the Art Nouveau era, these jewels drew inspiration from natural and organic forms, while during the Art Deco era, designs became more geometric and bold. Major luxury brands such as Bucherer, Cartier, Rolex, Gubelin and Blancpain have created sophisticated models combining tradition and innovation.

Art Deco watch ring in 18k gold, rubies and diamonds, Switzerland
from Maison Mohs

The ring-watch in oblivion

While watch rings enjoyed a certain popularity in the 18th century, they suffered an eclipse in the 19th century with the popularization of pocket watches, worn as pendants or attached to the waist. The 20th century then saw the popularity of wristwatches supplant this type of accessory.

Enameled silver watch ring, Didisheim-Goldschmiot Fils & co, circa 1900-1910

The revival of the watch ring

Ring watches have never completely disappeared and have continued to be reinterpreted throughout the trends. These jewelry watches were in high demand in the 1950s. Today, they are experiencing a resurgence thanks to modern designs and the integration of advanced technologies. The term “ring watch” currently has over 17 million views on TikTok. Luxury houses such as Cartier, Rolex, Gubelin, Blancpain have worked on sophisticated models that combine tradition and innovation.

Tank watch ring in gold and diamonds from Maison Mohs

Watch rings today

Some stars, like Rihanna and Taylor Swift, have been spotted sporting choker watches, bringing the "jewelry watch" back into the spotlight.

Furthermore, with the rise of connected objects, some brands are designing smart watch rings equipped with health sensors, notifications, and even alert systems. These high-tech models, while different from historical versions, perpetuate the idea of ​​an accessory that is both functional and elegant.

While modern watch rings combine technology and practicality, nothing beats the inimitable charm of a vintage watch ring. Each piece, with its unique and meticulously crafted design, tells a story, enhanced by the brilliance of precious stones and the expertise of watchmakers of yesteryear. Today, this antique jewel is making a strong comeback, worn by fashion enthusiasts and discerning collectors. Between nostalgia and trend, the watch ring of yesteryear is more than ever a timeless must-have.

See all our Antique Rings

If you found this article interesting, we recommend reading the one in Le Figaro: Rings, watches on your fingertips

* mechanism that causes the audible “beat” (ticking) of these mechanical systems.